Threading a sewing machine correctly is essential for quality, professional-looking stitch work. Whilst it may initially be a daunting task, with a little practice it can easily become second nature. In this article, we’ll explore the basics of threading a sewing machine and provide a step-by-step guide to ensure you can set up without the fear of tangling the thread or snapping the needle.
The seemingly complicated action of loading a sewing machine boils down to ensuring that the path of the thread is correctly directed. The thread should remain completely taut from the spool all the way to the needle’s eye, creating a smooth and even stitch pattern. A common mistake is to allow slack in the thread, which will result in a weak stitch, or even created loops on the underside of the fabric. UK designer and sewing enthusiast, Sam Tuohy, advises when loading a machine, particularly crucial: “A lot of problems can be avoided if you make sure you tension the thread correctly.”
Achieving a smooth and quality stitch requires the correct thread, needles and settings so it’s important that all components of the machine are in the best possible state. Begin by removing the presser foot, the arm that exists slightly above the throat plate. Now take your spool of thread and inspect it for any damaged fibre strands that may cause slipping or tension issues during the threading process. Sam recommends, “When buying a new spool of thread, make sure you check it for any signs of damage, as this can cause a great deal of distress when you’re sewing.”
Now take your sewing machine’s manual and refer to the flow chart specific to your machine. This is the optimal threading path and will guide you on the correct order of the thread’s journey. Start at the rear spool holder, thread the right slot, loop it around the left slot, wrap it around a small knob then leave the thread to hang below the machine. Take the spool of thread and place it in the spool holder, with the end of the thread facing the rear of the machine and the spool itself situated away from the machine.
Next, place the needle in the upper arm making sure the groove faces the rear of the machine, taking care to ensure the thread will not catch on the arm. Some brands, such as Brother, have an automatic needle threader, making this particular step fully automated. If you don’t have this feature, place the thread in the eye of the needle from the front and pull the thread down from the back of the needle’s eye.
Now take the thread further into the machine, passing through several components such as the thread guide, tension disk, and the take-up lever, until you reach the needle clamp screw. Ensure you’ve reached this part of the threading cycle and that none of the previous steps have been skipped. Now return to the needle threader and leave the thread to hang down. Many machines now come with thread cutters, where if you pull the thread the machine will cut it for you automatically.
Lastly, it’s time to test the threading. Raise the needle and presser foot, pull the thread to the rear and press down the foot pedal. This will ensure your needle is threaded and ready to sew.
Thread type
In order for your sewing machine to sew properly, it’s important to choose the right thread for the job. Thread types range from thin, fine threads for lace and fine fabrics, to more durable threads for more robust fabrics such as denim. Each thread comes with its own set of properties and will behave differently during the sewing process. Differential feed (DF) machines come in particularly useful when selecting a thread. DF is a feature that controls the threads speed whilst being sewn, allowing the user to choose between a standard stitch (straight stitch) or a stretch/gathering stitch.
Colour is a key consideration when choosing a thread, as something too pale or too bright against the fabric may cause certain issues with its use. When in doubt, always opt for a neutral colour such as white, grey or black. Lewis, the co-founder of London-based sewing company, Creative Stitches, offers a final piece of advice: “When deciding on a thread, always make sure you consider the fabric you’re using and make sure it’s suitable.”
Sewing Machine Needles
The needle is the tool that pierces the fabric, crucial for any successful stitching. Needles come in various sizes and sharpness, all with individual pros and cons. The needle size should always match the weight of the fabric and the type of thread you’re using. Common types include Universal and Denim, these having slightly different shapes for thin and robust fabrics.
The Universal needle is the go-to type, offering a good balance between sharpness and resilience. Although this covers a wide range of materials, it’s not designed for particularly soft fabrics. These types of fabric require a Microtex needle due to its finer point and shallower groove. Denim needles has a sharper point and deeper groove, designed to prevent skipped stitches and keep a nice clean finish along the fabric.
Changing needles can be tricky and must be removed with great care. To do this, turn the handwheel towards you and remove the needle plate with a screwdriver. Now unscrew the needle clamp screw and remove the needle and discard. Lastly, insert the new needle and tighten the needle clamp screw before reassembling the needle and the needle plate.
Troubleshooting and maintenance
It’s important to take proper care of your machine if you want it to remain functioning at its best. Whilst modern machines tend to require little to no maintenance, a few common issues can be easily resolved. First and foremost, always make sure you’re using the correct thread, needle and weight of fabric for the job. If skipped stitches occur, this could be due to an incorrect thread tension and incorrect position of the machine’s presser foot. Check the presser foot angle and ensure it is angled correctly.
Tangled thread is quite a common issue. If this happens, make sure the bobbin case and the inside of the feed dogs are clean from fluff and dust. Also, ensure there is no tension in the thread and that the thread is looped evenly. If you’re still having trouble, you can use a thread conditioner, which reduces static build-up, allowing the thread to sew smoother.
Machines and resources
Your sewing machine will be the most important resource you’ll need when learning and developing your craft. Rather than go straight to the biggest and most expensive machine, it’s best to find a mid-priced machine that has the features and functionality you require. Many models are now computerised, making repetitive tasks such as button holes automated, allowing you to get the job done quickly and efficiently once you are familiar with programming the machine. Other helpful resources include a new sewing box, complete with scissors and a range of needles, spare feet and bobbins, and a seam ripper to keep in your sewing station.
What to make
Once you’ve got the basics of sewing and threading sorted, it’s time to make something to test your newly acquired skills. Something small like a cushion or bag is a good place to start, since you’ll be familiar with the tasks of measuring, cutting and sewing involved in the complex projects. Making small items is also a good way to test out different threads and fabric types. Even with small projects, the end result is capable of producing something that’s professional-looking, even though it may take a while to get there.
Design
Designing the pattern of your garment or item is the fun part, allowing you to be as creative as you desire. Rather than jump straight and draw out the pattern, allow time to take inspiration from blogs, magazines and stores to see what’s out there. Deciding on the basic shape and style allows a template to be created and form the basis of the pattern designs. Look for similar patterns online and drafts these out into a workable pattern. Sam advises: “It’s important that the pattern fits correctly when placed on the fabric.”
Making changes will often be required at this stage, as the test garment may no look as expected. Measurements, darts and hemlines must all be taken into consideration and adjustments made until the pattern is just as you imagined. Once all of these issues are resolved, it’s time to trace the pattern onto fabric and start cutting.
Conclusion
Threading a sewing machine can quickly become second nature with a little practice. Taking care of the spool of thread, pairing it with the correct fabric and needle, and following the machine’s manual is key to achieving a smooth and even stitch pattern. Brands such as Brother now have specific features such as automatic needle threaders, allowing the user to quickly thread a machine in a few simple steps. Once the machine is threaded, it’s time to start creating!
