How To Select Sewing Machine Needles

Sewing machine needles are one of the most basic yet essential components of any sewing project, from a simple hem to a complicated patchwork quilt. It is important to understand that sewing machine needles are not all the same, and different needles are suitable for different fabrics, thread types, and sewing techniques. With all these options, it can be difficult to know what type of needle you should choose for your particular project. This article will help you understand the various types of sewing machine needles, the best types of needles for different fabrics and thread, and how to determine which needle size is best suited for your project.

Different Types of Sewing Machine Needles

To understand which sewing machine needle is best suited for your project, it is important to understand the differences between the various types of needles available. Generally, there are three main types of essential sewing machine needles: ballpoint needles, universal needles, and microtex needles.

Ballpoint needles are often used for sewing knitted fabrics as they feed the thread between the fabric fibres, unlike universal needles which can cause ladders or runs in knit fabrics. Universal needles, as the name suggests, are a popular choice for most fabrics and they can be used for a range of stitches. Microtex needles are made from a particularly sharp and thin material, which makes them a good choice for very lightweight and delicate fabrics.

Fabric and Thread

The type of fabric you are using will also determine which type of needle is suitable for use with your machine. When selecting a needle for sewing thick fabrics, such as denim or corduroy, it is important to choose a needle with a sharp point, as this will help to penetrate through the fabric more easily. For delicate fabrics such as chiffon and silk, a sharp and thin needle is essential, as thicker needles can cause snagging and pulls.

Another factor to consider is the thread. If you are using nylon thread, you will need to use a universal or ballpoint needle as these are best suited for synthetic threads. For cotton thread, you should use a universal needle.

Size of the Needle

The size of the needle is also important, as needles come in various sizes ranging from 8/60 to 18/120. The two numbers indicate the needle’s diameter and length in millimetres. The larger the number, the thicker and longer the needle is. Generally, a thicker needle should be used for heavier fabrics, such as denim, canvases, and corduroy, and a thinner needle should be used for lightweight fabrics, such as chiffon, tulle and organza. The needle size is also determined by the thickness of the thread you are using. Thicker threads require larger needles.

Can the Needle Damage My Machine?

It is important to ensure that the needle you choose fits correctly for your sewing machine. If the needle is too large for your machine, excessive force may be used during sewing operations and this could lead to damage of the machine’s internal components. Similarly, if the needle is too small, it may bend or break due to the higher stress on the needle.

To avoid this, you should always check the manufacturer’s instructions to ensure that the needle size you choose is compatible with your particular machine. As a general rule of thumb, a needle should be no more than 1/3 the thickness of the fabric you are using.

Replacing the Needle

Sewing machine needles should be replaced frequently, as they can become worn or damaged. You should replace your needle after every 8-10 hours of sewing or after completing one project. It is also important to inspect the needle prior to each use to ensure that it is not damaged or bent.

Replacing your needle regularly will also ensure that you are using the most suitable needle for the fabric and thread you have chosen, as needles tend to go blunt after prolonged use.

Importance of Needle Selection

Choosing the right needle is an important factor in producing the best results in your sewing projects. The right needle will ensure that the fabric is not damaged and the thread flows smoothly through the fabric, resulting in a high quality finish. Understanding the different types of needles, the fabrics and thread they are used with, and how to correctly determine the size of the needle are all important steps in knowing how to select the right needle for your sewing projects.

Needle Maintenance

Good maintenance of your needles is also essential. Store them in a safe place that is away from humid conditions and dust. Clean the needles after every use and store them in an area away from moisture. Also, check that the needles are not bent or distorted before using them, as this will ensure a smoother and more comfortable sewing experience.

Although the process of selecting the right needle for your sewing project may seem daunting at first, it does not need to be complicated. By understanding the different types of needles and the fabrics and threads they are suitable for, you can make an informed choice when selecting a needle for your project.

All-purpose V.S Specialized Needles

Most sewing enthusiasts like to have a variety of needles of various sizes, types and materials on hand. This can include something a bit more specialized such as a leather needle, or a decorative needle meant for top stitching or making buttonholes, as well as a range of all-purpose needles. All-purpose needles are generally a good option for most fabrics and household projects and are the most popular type of needle for casual sewing.

For serious and professional sewers, specialized needles are better suited for specific fabrics and tasks. Like all-purpose needles, these specialized needles come in different sizes and materials, depending on the type of fabric and task being performed. The manufacturers usually will provide instructions on the packaging of the specific needle as to what types of fabrics to use, and which stitches and techniques will produce the best results.

Regardless of what type of needle you choose, it is always important to check that you are using the right type of needle for the fabric and thread you are working with, and that the needle size is correctly suited for the project. Knowing the basics of needle selection will ensure that you are able to choose the best needle for your crafting and sewing needs and that your projects will have the best possible results.

Gauge Sizes

The needle gauge is the size or thickness of the needle, and this size is indicated as a number ranging from 8/60 to 18/120. Generally, the larger the number, the thicker and longer the needle is, and this size is important to consider when choosing the best needle for your project. Thicker needles are generally better suited for heavier fabrics, such as denim and corduroy, and thinner needles are better for lighter weight fabrics, such as chiffon and silk.

A larger needle size will make it easier to feed the fabric through the machine, whereas a smaller gauge needle can cause extra stress on the needle and the machine, resulting in bent or broken needles. Again, it’s a good idea to refer to the manufacturer’s instructions to determine the correct size of needle for your particular machine.

Choosing the best needle for the required task is an important step in the sewing process. By understanding the different types of needles and their various uses, you can select the best needle for your project, ensuring that the fabric is not damaged and the thread flows smoothly.

Needle Shapes

The shape of the needle is also important to consider when selecting a needle for a particular project. Generally, needles come in two main shapes, round and triangle. Round needles have a round shaft that is designed to penetrate the fabric evenly. This type of needle is best suited for knit fabrics, as it helps to avoid ladders or runs in the fabric.

Triangle needles feature a flat side and two angled sides, which help it to penetrate the fabric more easily. This type of needle is best suited for heavier fabrics such as denim, canvases and corduroy. For lightweight fabrics such as chiffon and organza, a sharp and thin needle is essential.

It is important to note that both round and triangle needles can come in different sizes, and the type of needle you choose should always be determined by the fabric and thread you are using.

Sewing Machine Needle Brands

When selecting a needle, it is always a good idea to choose a trusted brand. Many well-known sewing machine manufacturers produce their own range of needles, but it is important to make sure that the specific needle is compatible with your particular machine. Generally, needles produced by the brand of the machine you own will be higher quality and more reliable.

However, there are also a variety of aftermarket needles that are suitable for use on most machines. These needles usually come in a range of sizes and shapes and can cater to different fabrics and thread types.

Regardless of the brand of needle you choose, it is important to ensure that it is suited to the fabric and thread you are using, and the size is compatible with your machine. This will help ensure that you get the best results for your sewing projects.

Geoffrey Kirby is an experienced author and sewist who has been creating sewn projects for over 20 years. He has a passion for teaching beginners and inspiring more advanced sewists both online and through his writings. Outside of writing about sewing, Geoffrey loves to explore new techniques and styles of sewing that incorporate upcycling fabric remnants into sweet items with personality.

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