Thread and Needles
When deciding what size sewing machine needle to use it’s important to understand what type of thread and needle is best for the job. In the case of leather, the classic combination is the combination of an upholstery thread, a leather needle and an upholstery needle.
Leather Needle
A leather needle is a thicker and larger needle than a regular needle. This type of needle is specifically designed to work with leather since it’s more heavy duty than a regular needle due to it’s sharp points and its ability to pierce thicker material such as vinyl or leather. The size of the needle should be chosen according to the type and weight of the fabric. Heavier upholstery fabrics require a larger needle size than lighter weight fabrics.
Upholstery Needle
An upholstery needle is designed for use on heavier fabrics such as vinyl and leather. It’s a thick, heavier needle which has a long, sturdy shank and a sharp point. It’s used in combination with an upholstery thread, which is thicker and stronger than a standard thread. Since it’s used to create more durable and heavy-duty stitches, an upholstery needle is the best choice when sewing leather fabric.
Needle Size
When sewing leather with a sewing machine, the size of the needle should be between 90/14 and 110/18. Using a larger needle than this range can damage the material and could cause the stitching to come undone. Use a new needle whenever starting a project as the needles can become dull if they’re used multiple times, resulting in a poor-quality stitch.
Threading the Needle
When threading a leather fabric needle, make sure to use an upholstery thread or a heavy-duty thread designed for leather. If using an upholstery thread, it’s best to use a larger needle that’s designed for thicker fabrics. This will ensure that the thick thread will fit through the eye of the needle without excessive strain or force.
Stitch Length
The stitch length when sewing with leather fabric should be set to a longer stitch than the usual 2.5-3mm. A longer stitch is necessary to penetrate the thick fabric and ensure that the stitches are strong and secure. A stitch length of 4-5mm is ideal for leather fabric.
Presser Foot Pressure
When sewing leather fabric, the presser foot pressure should be increased to a higher setting than what is usually used for regular fabrics. This will ensure that the needle can penetrate the thick material and create secure and even stitches. Different sewing machines have different settings, so it’s best to consult the manual to get the correct presser foot pressure.
Test Stitch
Before beginning a project with leather, it’s important to do a test stitch. This will help ensure that the stitching will look professional and will hold together the fabric. To do a test stitch, place a small piece of leather fabric beneath the presser foot and sew a few inches. The stitch should be secure and even, and the stitches should not be too tight or too loose.
Tension Settings
When sewing leather fabric, tension adjustments will be necessary. It’s best to begin with the lowest setting and then gradually increase the tension until the stitches look even and secure. If the tension is too loose, the stitches will look sloppy and uneven. If the tension is too tight, the stitches may be difficult to remove if necessary.
Cleaning
Leather fabric can be difficult to clean and can easily become damaged if not properly cared for. When cleaning leather fabric, it’s best to use a damp cloth and avoid harsh cleaning products or detergents. Proper care and cleaning of leather fabric will help ensure that the material will last for years to come.
Storage
When not in use, it’s important to store leather fabric in a cool, dry place that is free from dust and moisture. Store the fabric in a breathable bag or container to prevent mold and mildew from forming. Air out the material periodically to prevent unpleasant odors from forming.
Stretching
Leather fabric can stretch when exposed to heat and humidity, so it’s important to store the fabric in a cool and dry area. Take care when ironing leather fabric as the heat of the iron can cause the fabric to shrink. Use the lowest heat setting and press the fabric with a pressing cloth to ensure that the leather fabric does not become damaged.
Finishing Touches
To add a professional finish to the leather fabric, use a leather sealer. Applying a leather sealer will help the material resist water, dirt, and other damaging elements. Sealers are available in both spray and liquid form and should be applied sparingly and evenly. Allow the sealer to dry completely before storing or using the fabric.
Special Stitches
When sewing leather fabric, there are a few special stitches that can be used to reinforce the seams. A bar tack, flat fell seam, and an overcast stitch are all commonly used when sewing leather fabric. These stitches are strong and secure and can help extend the life of the fabric.
Hand Sewing
In addition to sewing leather fabric with a sewing machine, it’s also possible to sew it by hand. When using a hand sewing needle, it’s best to use a curved needle made specifically for leather. This type of needle is designed to penetrate through the thicker material without damaging the fabric. Leather needles can also be used for hand sewing, but are not as strong as a curved needle.
