Adjusting Feed Dog and Foot Pressure
Thicker fabrics require more mechanical effort from the sewing machine, which means the feed dog and foot pressure must be adjusted. By adjusting the feed dog, it helps to keep the fabric from bunching up underneath the presser foot when sewing. To adjust the feed dog for thick fabric, raise the feed dog to the highest position and then slide it towards the right. The right edge is the needle that stitches on the heavier weight fabric.
With the foot pressure, heavier fabric needs a higher pressure since the fabric tends to slip around with the presser foot. To adjust the foot pressure, turn the dial slightly clock-wise. You will start to feel the fabric slipping less and be able to sew more securely. Make sure to keep an eye on your stitch quality. If it looks or feels unevenly sewn, adjust the foot pressure until it improves.
Thread and Needle Types
For heavier fabric projects, such as jeans, upholstery, and canvas, a larger needle is essential. For this type of fabric, use a 90/14 needle and a heavier thread, such as a 100-weight thread. The size of the needle is vitally important for thick fabrics; too small a needle can cause it to break, and too large a needle can cause holes in the material.
When choosing a thread, you need a stronger thread that can pierce through the extra layers of fabric. Synthetic thread is your best option as it has greater strength, durability, and stretch than cotton. Additionally, it can also resist fading, abrasion, and fraying.
Stitch Type
The stitch type changes based on what fabric you are using and what kind of project you are working on. When working with thicker fabrics, it is important to choose a stitch that can handle denser heavyweight fabrics and creates strong, durable seams. For this type of fabric, you will require the strongest stitch type. The strength of the stitch is essential, as it must be able to hold the fabric securely so that it does not fray or tear when being worn.
The two best stitch types for thicker fabric are the triple-stitch or the zigzag stitch. The triple-stitch provides three layers of thread and is incredibly secure. The zigzag stitch also gives good reinforcement, with a distinctive pattern, and can also be used for decorative stitching.
Twin Needles
If you want to add a hem, the use of a twin needle is the perfect way to get the job done quickly and neatly. A twin needle has two prongs which means your machine can sew with two spools of thread that run through the needle plate and one thread looping underneath the fabric. It is the perfect way to get a professionally finished and secure hem.
Tension Setting
This is an important feature on a sewing machine, as it helps to maintain consistent stitches throughout the fabric. If the tension is too tight it can cause the seam to pucker, and if it is too loose, the fabric can be pushed away from the needle. For a thicker fabric, adjust the tension so that it is slightly tighter than normal.
Test the stitch on a scrap of the fabric to make sure it looks right. If the stitches look uneven, too big or too tight, adjust the tension until it looks correct.
Presser Foot Pressure
When sewing thicker fabrics, it is essential the presser foot pressure is correct. Too much or too little pressure can cause problems while sewing. To adjust the presser foot pressure correctly, place the fabric under the foot and tighten the screw on the foot. You should start to feel the fabric slipping less and be able to sew more securely.
Seam Allowance Settings
When sewing thicker fabrics, you will require a larger seam allowance. This is essential to prevent too much strain on the fabric and seams. To adjust the seam allowance setting on your sewing machine, change the setting to a larger allowance than normal. A good rule of thumb is to use a seam allowance of 5/8 inch or 1.5 cm.
Adjusting your sewing machine for thick fabric can be a tricky process. But taking the time to adjust all these settings for the best results. It is important to know that the settings may need to be adjusted for each new project.
Lubrication of Machine Parts
When working with thicker fabrics, it is important to make sure all the machine parts are properly lubricated. Lubrication helps to keep the parts moving smoothly, preventing friction and helping to prolong the life of the machine. To lubricate a sewing machine, carefully use an oil-free lubricant in the areas indicated by the manual.
You should also look out for signs that the sewing machine needs lubrication: make sure to check it regularly for objects stuck in the feed dog, and ensure the machine runs smoothly and quietly. If the machine starts to make strange noises or runs harder than usual, it may be time to lubricate.
Regular Cleaning
Regular cleaning of your sewing machine is an essential part of maintaining it. Each time you finish a project, it is important to clean the machine. This will help to keep all the parts of the machine running smoothly, making it easier and more efficient to sew next time.
To clean the machine, start by removing any extra pieces of fabric that might have been left behind, then use a small brush and vacuum to remove debris from the interior. Finally, use a damp cloth to wipe down the outside and make sure to dry it before putting it away.
Storage
No matter what type of fabric you are sewing, it is essential to store the machine in a clean, dry, and dust-free environment. This will help to keep the machine in top condition, making it easier and more convenient to use. Consider investing in a breatheable fabric cover or bag with a zip to fully protect the machine when not in use.
When not in use, it is important to turn the machine off and unplug it to protect it from any possible damage. Additionally, it is a good practice to cover the machine with a dust cover before you store it away.
Conclusion
Making adjustments to your sewing machine for thick fabric can be a difficult and time consuming process. However, with a few simple tips and tricks, you can have a perfectly adjusted sewing machine that is ready to tackle any type of project. Regular cleaning, lubrication, and storage are key, along with adjusting the feed dog, foot pressure, thread, needle type, stitch type, and tension for each individual project.
